Cactus Cliff

If the chain is down take the rough road from the hairpin turn up to the parking lot at the base of cactus cliffs. It is all of 100 yard to the rock from there. There is room for a dozen or so cars if people would quit parking all crazy.

IMO, Cactus seems to have more loose rocks on routes and ledges than some of the other Shelf areas. Be careful and wear a helmet -- both leader and belayer.

GPS Coordinates for parking lot:38.63233 deg N105.22389 deg Welevation 6721 feet

I think the road to Cactus should be closed.The main climbing season for cactus is winter.The road is too steep,and always covered with snow.If the snow doesn't get you,the mud will.I'm totally willing to walk from The Bank parking lot.This may keep the crowd to less then 50+ cars.

The road to Cactus Cliff's parking can be a nightmare. The steep road is no problem when dry but a shady section down low often holds snow and ice. This section also happens to be one of the steepest sections of the road. People in 4X4's come sliding backwards down the road when it's icy, usually while some other car is coming up. A major accident waiting to happen. There isn't room for too many cars at the bottom of the hill so parking at the Bank is a good solution. But not too many people will want to make the hike.

A bunch of parking citations got handed out on Sunday afternoon for parking on the road. It was the first time in ten years of climbing there that we've had that happen, after multiple times parking on the big pullout on the bend below the Spiny Ridge/Gym junction. Best topark at the Bank I suppose but that lot's a little too small these days.

Were the ticketed cars in the pullout or on the road? I've always assumed that the cars in the pullout were legit while the other cars who parked on the road were breaking the rules.

There is a shiny new road sign just past the turnoff to the campgrounds: "do not leave cars unattended, next 4 miles". I assume that means you can't park along the road, nor in the pullouts adjacent to the road.

3 weekends in a row has been enough to convince me that Cactus Cliff is the LOUDEST crag in the state. From wife beaters to screaming kids to spray lords, I've never been surrounded by such rude LOUD climbers in my life. No more than 8 cars were in the lot this past weekend but when we were near any party, they were loud. I climb with my kids and teach them to be respectful of the other climbers around them yet the adults in the area can't do the same.

I agree with BR The road to Cactus should be closed for sure. Are people that lazy they won't take the nice hike from the campground. This crag plays host to some of the most gapertastic climbers I've ever had the displeasure to climb around. If your visiting from out of state DON'T follow the crowds, poke around and you WILL find good climbing. I could have sworn there is a little more rock to climb at Shelf, other than Cactus Cliff.

As of 9/21/07, the road to Cactus Cliff is closed. Don't follow the directions in the guidebook. The access is much easier now from "The Bank" campground. From the campground walk to the parking area then 50 yards or so down the right fork of the road. Turn right onto a nice trail that leads onto the old Cactus Cliff road and then up to the cliff. About 1 mile. The whole trail is extremely well made and marked. There are signs everywhere to the crags. Great job and a definite improvement from what I can see.

Thanks for mentioning the road closure and new access trail, Chris. More information regarding this change is on the accessfund.org website. It reads:

Shelf Road: Cactus Cliffs Road Closure, CO (11/14/2006)

Liz Nichol, Outreach Coordinator, Rocky Mountain Field Institute
Beginning November 2006 the road leading to the Cactus Cliffs climbing area from Shelf Road will be closed. The BLM has decided to close this steep, un-maintained road due to liability issues and the requests of private property owners along the road.

Cactus Cliffs, Spiney Ridge, and The Gymnasium are still open to climbing.

There is a new trail leading to Cactus Cliffs from The Bank. This is now the fastest, most convenient way to approach the area. The trail was built in August by the Rocky Mountain Field Institute with the help of AmeriCorps volunteers and a grant from the Access Fund. It is approximately 1.5 miles long.

Please park in the newly expanded parking area at The Bank.

PLEASE DO NOT PARK ALONG SHELF ROAD.
For more information contact BLM at 719-269-8500 Thank you for your cooperation.

Did a route last weekend that is not listed here or in The Sharp End guide. It is called The Reach Around 11+, from the painted inscription at the base of the climb. It is on the next arete to the right of Almost French. Does anyone know who put this up and what is the consensus for the grade?
It gets a little harder with each move, with the crux just below the anchors. The crux was pretty stiff for 5.11 in my opinion.