Go buy some beer boys, because this is the route to get drunk for. This formation is very much like the Mexican Hat. The resemblance is the only similarity. Actually, this route is more technical than the Mexican Hat. Look in Bjorstad's DESERT ROCK III guide (page 254) for directions to Devil's Canyon. From the parking lot, stay left (east) on the trail. Whenever there is a decision in trail direction, always take the left option. About 20-30 minutes from the car, you'll see a cowboy hat up and to the right (west) of the trail. Remember that this is NOT in the canyon itself, rather it's in the flat lands and meadows below the canyon. The route ascends the south side of the formation. Be sure to haul some rocks up there to add to the summit cairn. If you can figure out how to climb this thing, you'll know how to get off. Let me make this more simple. Not your average gumby with the latest issue of Rock and Ice can look in the aid climbing pages and figure this route out. This short thing is more advanced than Prodical Sun in Zion. So grab a Pabst and climb the damn thing! -tda
Protection
I won't [tell] you about gear, but I will say that beer is mandatory equipment for this route!
I brought the beer folks, and had a blast (from what I can remember). Yes sir-ee this route rewarded me whith stuff I haven't done before. There is danger to this route. If you don't know what you're doing, you could take a "backer" onto the slickrock below. I didn't bring summit rocks up with me, but I plan on doing it again. I'm going to search for monster rocks to leave. Let's built a collosal cairn on top. This thing is more fun than the Cobra in the Fisher Towers, and ...harder than the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite (with the exception of the shoe-lace slung pin). Long Live the Cowboy Hat.
One of the best climbs in the world, my friend.Gumbies need not apply.Danger, excitement, horror, joy, and teamwork.Long day. Next time, will do a hanging bivi off the side of the face, so it won't be such a long day.
If anyone wants to see some good photos of the route, see my link below:
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